Baba Harbhajan Singh: The Indian Army Soldier Who Never Left His Post
The 3,000-odd soldiers guarding the 14,000-feet high Nathula border point between India and China swear by him. The Chinese Army across the border leaves a vacant chair for him during flag meetings. His bed sheets are found crumpled every morning. His polished boots turn muddy by evening.
And he died in 1968.
This is not a ghost story. This is the legend of Captain Baba Harbhajan Singh — the “Hero of Nathula” — an Indian Army soldier who, even 57 years after his death, is believed to still be guarding the nation’s eastern borders .
Who Was Baba Harbhajan Singh?
Baba Harbhajan Singh was born on August 30, 1946 (some sources say 1941), in Sadrana village, which is now in Pakistan’s Tarn Taran district . After the Partition, his family moved to Kuka village in Kapurthala district, Punjab.
In 1966, at just 20 years old, he joined the Indian Army’s 23rd Battalion of the Punjab Regiment .
Two years later, in October 1968, he was posted at a high-altitude outpost near the Nathula Pass in East Sikkim — one of the most treacherous terrains on the Indo-China border.
That’s where his story took a turn from the ordinary to the extraordinary .
The Tragic Incident: How He Died
In early October 1968, Sepoy Harbhajan Singh was leading a column of mules carrying essential supplies to a remote army outpost near the Nathula Pass .
The terrain was brutal. The weather was unforgiving. At some point, he slipped and fell into a fast-flowing glacial stream. The current swept him away.
His body was nowhere to be found .
The army launched a massive search operation. Day after day, they combed the area. But there was no trace of the young soldier.
Then, something happened that no one could explain .
“Image source: Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain”
The Legend: A Soldier Who Never Left His Post
But the story didn’t end with his cremation. In fact, that’s where it truly began.
After his death, soldiers stationed at the Nathula border began reporting strange occurrences:
| Phenomenon | Details |
|---|---|
| Prophetic dreams | Harbhajan Singh appeared in soldiers’ dreams, warning them of impending enemy attacks — always three days in advance |
| Crumpled bed sheets | His bed in the memorial room, made freshly every morning, would be found crumpled the next day |
| Muddy boots | His polished shoes, kept neatly by his bed, would be found caked in mud by evening |
| Water bottles turning medicinal | Devotees leave sealed water bottles at the temple. After a week — the time Baba is believed to take to “purify” them — the water is collected and believed to have healing properties |
| Slippers curing ailments | Slippers left at the temple are thought to cure gout and other foot ailments |
The soldiers are convinced: Baba still does his nightly rounds, patrolling the border he died protecting .
The Chinese Army Respects Him Too
Perhaps the most astonishing part of this legend is that even the Chinese Army pays their respects.
During customary flag meetings between the Indian and Chinese armies at Nathula Pass, the Chinese delegation leaves a vacant chair for Baba Harbhajan Singh .
A caretaker jawan at the temple told India Today:
“It is not just the Indian Army. The Chinese Army also believes in the Baba’s spirit. The dragon is scared of him. At this border, we have his backing. Nothing can go wrong here. An empty chair for Baba is kept in all the customary flag meetings.”Â
Chinese soldiers stationed across the border have reportedly reported seeing a turbaned sentry doing his rounds at night . The Chinese People’s Liberation Army (PLA) is said to be “wary of Baba’s spirit” on Nathula Pass .
A colonel paying his respects at the temple confirmed:
“The Indian Army has great faith in Baba’s legendary powers. Each unit and reinforcement which cross the route moves ahead after taking his blessings.”Â
This level of respect from both sides of the border is almost unheard of. A soldier who refuses to leave his post — recognized by both nations as a presence to be reckoned with.
“Image source: Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain”
Promoted Beyond Death: The Rank of Captain
The Indian Army doesn’t treat Baba Harbhajan Singh as a memory. They treat him as still serving .
He has been posthumously promoted to the rank of Honorary Captain .
His salary is still drawn every month. Until her death in 2006, a portion was sent to his mother, Amar Kaur. Now, it is all spent on welfare work .
Every year, he is granted two months of “annual leave” (believed to be from September 11 to early November)Â .
During his leave, a special reserved berth is booked in his name on the train from New Jalpaiguri to his hometown .
Three soldiers accompany his portrait and belongings on this journey .
The seat is left empty for the entire trip — no waitlisted passenger is ever assigned it .
When he is “on leave,” the army is said to be on high alert, as his protective presence is temporarily absent .
Some recent reports from late 2025 suggest that this practice of “annual leave” may have been stopped due to objections, but the core belief in his continued presence remains strong .
The Temple: Baba Mandir
Today, there are actually two Baba Mandirs in the region .
The Old Baba Mandir
Located near Chhokya Chho at an elevation of approximately 4,000 meters (13,123 feet), this was the original shrine built at the spot where Baba was posted . Visitors must climb 50 stairs to reach this bunker-like structure .
“Image source: Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain”
The New Baba Mandir
Built later at the junction of the Kupup-Gnathang road and the trail leading to Menmecho Lake, this is the temple most tourists visit today . It features:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Main hall | A large portrait of Baba surrounded by Sikh Gurus and Hindu deities |
| Baba’s office | A room where he is believed to carry out his daily duties |
| Living quarters | A room with his bed, neatly made every morning |
| Uniform and shoes | Pressed and polished, kept ready for him |
| Storage room | Filled with offerings from devotees, including thousands of sealed water bottles |
The temple is maintained by the Indian Army and is open to both military personnel and civilian devotees .
How to Visit Baba Mandir
Location
Baba Mandir is located approximately 50-60 km from Gangtok, on the road that leads toward Nathula Pass . The temple sits at an altitude of about 13,123 feet (4000 meters) .
Permits Required
Because the temple is located in a protected border area (Indo-China border), a Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required to visit .
| Document Required | Details |
|---|---|
| Photo ID proof | Aadhar card, Driver’s License, Passport, or Voter ID |
| Passport size photographs | 2 copies |
Permits are usually arranged by registered tour operators or local travel agencies in Gangtok. You should apply at least one day in advance .
The permit office opens at 6 AM, and permits can sometimes be obtained the same day if you arrive early .
Best Time to Visit
| Season | Months | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Summer | March to June | Pleasant weather, clear skies, roads open. Best time |
| Monsoon | July to September | Heavy rainfall, landslides, poor visibility. Avoid |
| Autumn | October to November | Clear, crisp weather. Second best time |
| Winter | December to February | Extreme cold, frequent snowfall, road closures possible |
Note: The temple is sometimes closed during peak winter months due to heavy snowfall and road blockages .
| Season | Months | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Summer | March to June | Pleasant weather, clear skies, roads open. Best time |
| Monsoon | July to September | Heavy rainfall, landslides, poor visibility. Avoid |
| Autumn | October to November | Clear, crisp weather. Second best time |
| Winter | December to February | Extreme cold, frequent snowfall, road closures possible |
Note: The temple is sometimes closed during peak winter months due to heavy snowfall and road blockages.
Timings
The temple is generally open from 8:00 AM to 2:30 PM, Tuesday through Sunday. The temple is closed on Mondays .
Visitors usually combine the trip to Baba Mandir with Tsomgo Lake (Changu Lake) and Nathula Pass in a single day trip .
How to Reach
From Gangtok:
By private taxi: A round trip from Gangtok in a full reserved car (like Scorpio) costs approximately ₹5,000Â
By shared jeep: More economical, but availability depends on demand
The journey takes about 2.5 to 3 hours one wayÂ
From Outside Gangtok:Â
| Mode | Route | Details |
|---|---|---|
| By Air | Bagdogra Airport (IXB) → Gangtok | ~160 km, 6-hour drive |
| By Air | Pakyong Airport → Gangtok | Closer, but fewer flights |
| By Train | New Jalpaiguri (NJP) → Gangtok | ~170 km, 6.5-hour drive |
Once you reach Gangtok, you must arrange a local taxi or tour package to visit Baba Mandir .
Things to Do at Baba Mandir
Offer prayers: Devotees offer rum and cigarettes (Baba’s preferred offerings during his lifetime)Â
Leave a water bottle: Seal a bottle of water with your name and leave it at the temple. Collect it after a week — it is believed to have been “blessed” by BabaÂ
Visit Old Baba Mandir: If time permits, climb the 50 steps to the original bunker where Baba was postedÂ
Photography: Capture the stunning Himalayan backdrop, but avoid photographing army zones and restricted areasÂ
Attend the annual fair: The Baba Harbhajan Singh Fair is held every year in JuneÂ
Things to Keep in Mind Before You Visit
| Tip | Reason |
|---|---|
| Carry warm clothing | The temperature at 13,000+ feet can drop drastically, even in summer |
| Start early | The permit and the long drive mean you should leave Gangtok by 6-7 AMÂ |
| Carry cash | There are no ATMs near the temple |
| Respect the protocols | This is a sensitive border area and a military zone. Maintain decorum |
| Carry water and snacks | Limited food options are available along the route |
| Acclimatize if needed | The high altitude can cause breathlessness for some visitors |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is a permit really required to visit Baba Mandir?
Yes. Because the temple is located close to the Indo-China border, a Protected Area Permit (PAP) is mandatory. Your tour operator will arrange it .
Can civilians visit Nathula Pass and Baba Mandir?
Yes, but with a permit. Nathula Pass is open to civilians on Wednesday through Sunday .
Is photography allowed at Baba Mandir?
Yes, you can take photos of the temple and the surrounding landscape. However, avoid photographing army zones and restricted military areas .
Why are rum and cigarettes offered to Baba?
Baba Harbhajan Singh was known to enjoy rum and cigarettes during his lifetime. Devotees offer these as a mark of respect .
Is there an entry fee?
No, there is no entry fee to visit the temple. However, you will need to pay for transportation, permits, and any tour package you book .
Is it true that the Chinese Army respects him too?
Yes. During flag meetings at Nathula Pass, the Chinese delegation sets aside a vacant chair in his honor. Chinese soldiers have also reportedly seen a turbaned figure patrolling the border at night .
How long should I plan for this trip?
The round trip from Gangtok to Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir, and back takes approximately 6-8 hours, depending on weather and road conditions .
Does Baba Harbhajan Singh really still "serve" in the army?
Officially, he was posthumously promoted and “retired” a few years ago. But soldiers stationed at Nathula continue to believe in his presence and treat his quarters as if he still occupies them .
What Travelers Say
Here are some recent visitor reviews of Baba Mandir:
“Very famous tourist place in Sikkim. Nice side view. My family visited this place. No entry fees.”Â
“One must visit this temple out of respect for Indian army and the country.”Â
“A very powerful and unique place. We happened to visit this temple before covering the Nathu La Pass… One of the army officers came forward and delivered this exceptional Sikh sermon.”Â
“Just below Nathula Pass this awesome temple made in the memory of bravery of our Javan Harbhajan Singh and it’s said till today he is protecting our side of borders from invaders!!!”Â
Sources & Further Reading
For the most accurate and detailed information, please refer to the following high-authority sources:
- India Today - Chinese PLA wary of Baba Harbhajan's spirit on Nathula Pass
- Zee News - Meet Baba Harbhajan Singh – the 'immortal' soldier who still guards Nathula Pass
- Wikipedia - Baba Harbhajan Singh
- The New Indian Express - The Vault of Vishnu: A masterful blend of myth and history
- News18 - Martyred Soldier Who Continues to Guard India's Eastern Borders
Conclusion: A Legacy Beyond Death
Whether you believe in the supernatural or not, one thing is undeniable:Â Baba Harbhajan Singh represents the unwavering dedication of the Indian soldier.
In a world where death usually ends a story, his story continues. His bed is still made every morning. His boots are still polished every evening. His salary is still sent home. His seat on the train is still left empty.
The men in green — who are deployed in terrain bordering on the surreal — swear by him.
“He gives us the strength to cope with adversities here,” says sepoy Shri Prakash, quoted in a 2006 India Today report .
So, when you travel through Sikkim — whether to Gangtok, Tsomgo Lake, or the mighty Nathula Pass — remember: you are walking through land watched over by a brave soldier who never really left his post.
Jai Hind.
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